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When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.